chemical beauty
Ever since the industrialization of the beauty industry in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the transition from ancient, herbal-based cosmetic formulas to chemically-driven mass production marked a significant departure from humanity’s long-standing relationship with natural beauty. For centuries, people around the world relied on plant-based remedies rooted in tradition and efficacy to enhance health and aesthetics. However, the rise of industrial beauty–first pioneered in Europe and North America–sidelined these time-honored approaches in favor of synthetic, scalable alternatives.
Pre-industrialization, beauty practices were deeply intertwined with nature and culture, tailored to the local environment and its unique botanical wealth. The world’s first beauty routines were grounded in holistic medicine. For example, Chinese women used pearl powder to brighten their complexion, a practice dating back to at least 320 AD, with records dating back to the Shen Nong Ben Cao Jing and other pharmacopeias around this time.
Similarly, Ayurvedic traditions in India, and throughout South and Southeast Asia, featured ingredients like sandalwood, turmeric, and neem, which were used to soothe the skin and promote a radiant glow. Japanese women relied on camellia oil for hair and skin health, and rice water was used to enhance skin clarity—a practice still revered today, particularly by the geisha.
The Middle East’s beauty rituals were also steeped in using natural oils and aromatics. Hammam (traditional steam bath) rituals combined cleansing with herbal exfoliants like rassoul clay. Other examples include rosewater, widely used in Persian culture and perfumery, and argan oil, native to Morocco, skincare staples celebrated for their anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties. Kohl, made from galena or lead sulfide, was applied to the eyes for beauty and its protective properties against harsh sunlight. properties.
Likewise, across Africa, indigenous herbs and oils have long played a central role in beauty. Shea butter, native to West Africa, was prized for its nourishing properties, while in Southern Africa, the oil from native marula trees was used to hydrate the skin in arid climates. In North Africa, the Middle East, and the Indian Subcontinent, henna, a multipurpose plant, has been used for hair conditioning and body art, symbolizing beauty, spirituality, and protection.
The Indigenous peoples of Latin America also harnessed the power of plants like aloe vera for skin care, calendula for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, and papaya for its natural exfoliating enzymes that promote healthy skin renewal. The Aztecs used tepezcohuite bark as a natural healing agent for burns and wounds, while Andean communities relied on quinoa for its nutrient-rich properties. In jojoba oil’s native climates of northern Mexico and the Southwestern U.S., it has been traditionally used for moisturizing and healing properties, particularly for treating dry skin, sunburns, and scalp conditions. The oil’s composition, closely resembling human sebum, made it an effective natural remedy for maintaining skin hydration and balancing oil production. Indigenous peoples in these regions would incorporate jojoba oil into their beauty and self-care routines, using it to nourish the skin and hair in the harsh desert climate.
It’s important to note that while these ancient traditions often reflected sustainable practices, this wasn't always a conscious choice—it was often a necessity due to reliance on local resources. Still, these practices leveraged the wisdom of nature to create beauty products that were safe for both the body and the environment. So when did this stop being the norm?
The industrial revolution of the 19th century, fueled by technological advancements in Europe and the U.S., dramatically altered the landscape of beauty as we know it today. By the mid-1800s, products like Vaseline (invented in 1867) and coal tar-based dyes began to replace natural ingredients. Companies like Coty (founded in 1904 in France) and L’Oréal (established in 1909 in Paris) led the charge in developing synthetic fragrances, preservatives, and hair dyes. The global reach of industrial beauty products often overshadowed traditional practices, as colonialism and trade introduced Western beauty ideals to Asia, Africa, Latin America, and the Middle East. These ideals emphasized fair skin and Eurocentric features, further eroding indigenous beauty traditions.
By the 1940s and 1950s, the post-World War II economic boom accelerated the use of synthetic materials, including parabens and phthalates. These chemicals were marketed as convenient and effective solutions despite limited research on their long-term safety. While industrial beauty products became more accessible worldwide, they often ignored the rich diversity of traditional beauty practices and introduced new risks to consumers' health and the environment.
Irresponsibly, synthetic ingredients like microplastics and non-biodegradable preservatives have grossly polluted waterways worldwide. In Africa, for example, beauty products sold in urban markets often lack proper disposal systems, compounding the environmental toll. The shift away from natural ingredients has also led to reduced reliance on native plants that were once integral to beauty rituals. As demand for synthetic chemicals grew, the cultivation of medicinal plants, such as neem in India or marula in Africa, declined in favor of industrial crops.
The industrialization of beauty has led to more widespread adoption of synthetic ingredients, many of which pose risks to human health and the planet. For instance, endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) like parabens and phthalates, now found in products globally, have been proven to interfere with hormone systems. Further research has found that people in regions with heavy exposure to industrial products, including urban areas in Asia, Africa, Latin America and beyond, had higher levels of these toxins in their bloodstreams.
Many beauty products list the term “fragrance” on their ingredient list—a single word that can mask the presence of hundreds of undisclosed chemicals. These substances, protected under trade secret laws, often include phthalates, benzene derivatives, and synthetic musks.
According to a 2012 report in Environmental Health Perspectives, whose authors studied over 200 commercial products to evaluate their EDC and asthma-associated chemical content, “many detected chemicals were not listed on product labels.” Alarmingly, these compounds do not stay on the skin's surface; they can be absorbed into the bloodstream, magnifying their potential effects.
The use of potentially harmful chemicals in makeup is a complex issue driven by factors like cost, effectiveness, and limited awareness. Here are some reasons behind it, as well as why people continue to use such products:
Why Harmful Chemicals Are Used
1. Preservation and Shelf Life: Chemicals like parabens and formaldehyde-releasing agents are used as preservatives to prevent microbial growth and extend the product's shelf life.
2. Performance: Ingredients such as synthetic fragrances, phthalates, and silicones can enhance texture, scent, or product performance, making them more appealing to consumers.
3. Cost Efficiency: Synthetic or chemical ingredients are often cheaper to produce and formulate compared to natural or organic alternatives.
4. Lack of Strict Regulation: In some countries, cosmetic regulations may not fully restrict or monitor certain chemicals that are later found to have adverse effects.
Why People Still Use Such Makeup
1. Lack of Awareness: Many consumers are unaware of the potential risks associated with the ingredients in their cosmetics.
2. Marketing and Branding: Companies often focus on marketing the benefits of their products, like glowing skin or long-lasting wear, without emphasizing the potential downsides.
3. Trust in Regulation: People assume that if a product is on the market, it must have passed safety standards.
4. Limited Options: Affordable, natural, or organic alternatives may not always be widely available, making conventional products the only practical choice for many.
5. Convenience and Habit: Many consumers stick with familiar brands or products they've used for years, often without considering ingredient safety.
What Can Be Done
1. Educate Yourself: Learn to read ingredient labels and research the safety of chemicals commonly used in makeup.
2. Opt for Safer Alternatives: Choose products labeled as non-toxic, organic, or free from harmful substances like parabens, sulfates, and phthalates.
3. Support Transparency: Advocate for better regulations and support brands that are transparent about their ingredients.
4. Demand Change: Consumer pressure can push companies to reformulate products with safer alternatives.
While many chemicals in makeup are safe in regulated quantities, growing awareness of long-term effects is prompting shifts toward cleaner and more sustainable beauty practices.
The history of makeup is a fascinating journey through time, reflecting cultural, social, and technological developments. Here's an overview of how makeup has evolved through the ages:
Ancient Civilizations (4000 BCE–500 CE)
Egypt: One of the earliest societies to use makeup, Egyptians used kohl (made of galena and other minerals) to line their eyes, creating dramatic looks while protecting against sun glare and infections. They also used red ochre for lips and cheeks and green malachite for eyeshadow.
Mesopotamia: Both men and women applied oils and perfumes and used kohl for eye definition.
Greece and Rome: In Greece, pale skin was prized, achieved through lead-based face powders. The Romans adopted similar trends and also used rouge and natural dyes to enhance their lips and cheeks.
Middle Ages (500–1500 CE)
Europe: Pale skin remained a symbol of wealth and status, as it signified freedom from outdoor labor. Women used chalk, flour, or lead-based powders to whiten their faces. However, heavy makeup was often associated with immorality in Christian Europe.
Asia: In China and Japan, white face paint and red accents on the lips were popular. The Japanese geisha look, with its distinct makeup style, emerged during this period.
Renaissance (14th–17th Century)
Europe: A renewed interest in art and beauty led to more elaborate cosmetic practices. Women used lead-based powders and rouge. High foreheads were fashionable, with women plucking their hairlines to achieve the look.
Perfumes: Trade routes brought exotic fragrances and beauty ingredients like oils and spices from the Middle East and Asia.
18th Century
Rococo Era: Aristocrats in France and England embraced flamboyant styles. Makeup was heavily applied, with powdered wigs, bright rouge, and artificial beauty marks (mouches) being common.
Criticism: Despite its popularity, makeup began to attract criticism for being deceptive or overly artificial.
19th Century (Victorian Era)
Natural Beauty Movement: Queen Victoria's reign popularized a more modest and "natural" appearance. Heavy makeup was associated with actresses and "questionable" women, leading to subtle cosmetics like lip salves and rice powders.
Commercial Products: The industrial revolution introduced mass-produced cosmetics, making them more accessible.
20th Century
Early 1900s: Makeup became more acceptable, particularly for Hollywood actresses. Max Factor and other brands began creating products for the mass market.
1920s: Flapper culture embraced bold looks—red lips, smoky eyes, and penciled eyebrows. Compact powders and mascara became popular.
1930s–40s: The Golden Age of Hollywood set beauty trends with glamorous looks. During WWII, resource shortages led to the creation of innovative products, such as lipstick in patriotic shades.
1950s: Post-war prosperity allowed for a boom in beauty products. Iconic stars like Marilyn Monroe popularized winged eyeliner and red lips.
1960s–70s: Bold, colorful eyeshadow and false eyelashes were trends in the 60s, influenced by mod fashion. The 70s saw a shift to natural, earthy tones as the hippie movement embraced minimalism.
1980s: Bright, bold colors and dramatic styles defined the decade, reflecting the era's vibrant, over-the-top aesthetic.
1990s: Minimalism returned, with neutral tones, matte lipsticks, and grunge-inspired looks.
21st Century
Diversity and Innovation: The makeup industry now celebrates inclusivity, offering a wide range of shades for all skin tones.
Social Media Influence: Platforms like YouTube and Instagram have democratized beauty knowledge, giving rise to beauty influencers and trends like contouring, strobing, and bold, experimental looks.
Sustainability: Consumers are increasingly seeking eco-friendly, cruelty-free, and organic products.
Makeup has evolved from a symbol of status and ritual to an everyday tool for self-expression and creativity, influenced by culture, technology, and societal trends. Reading through the history of chemicals and uses through the ages shines a light on the nefarious uses and questionable practices of face painting. I personally never much liked painting my face, instead prefer painting a canvas… that said, I celebrate those who challenge the status quo and push corporations to rethink their formulas.
I started this article as a beacon for allowing people to adorn themselves as they wish, to dress, love and paint what they want…regardless their gender. Through the decades, society has determined what is appropriate make-up and who should wear it. We have denied humanity’s deep desire to explore one’s own abilities, individual power and authority. The human condition is realizing the responsibility of choice, and to pay attention to the reasons for our choices. Seems quite simple to me…